Ein Karem, Jerusalem

Ma’ayan Miriam Structure

On a chilly Friday, a few days after Tu BiShvat, a small group met with guide Itzik Stauber in Ein Kerem. The air was cool, the sky overcast but not threatening rain, and the village appeared relatively quiet for the hour. We began at Mary’s Spring. The water flowed as usual, and Itzik explained the Christian identification of the site with the story of the Annunciation and the centrality of the spring in the village’s development over the generations. From there we continued to the Visitation Steps but did not ascend them; instead, we proceeded along an unpaved side path branching off from the road – the Hadassah Trail.

Three and a half domes, and two more peeking out

The next stop was Gorny Monastery, also known as The Moscovia. From a distance, the Church of All Russian Saints is visible with its five and a half gilded domes (the half dome is located above the rear section). Even on a cloudy day, they stand out prominently above the trees. Itzik elaborated on the story of the compound’s establishment in the 19th century, the Russian presence in the area, and the changes the site has undergone over the years. We entered the monastery grounds – quiet and orderly, with clean pathways and tall cypress trees. There was something restrained about the atmosphere, not overly touristy, more a place living its own routine.

Beit Zayit Reservoir

Upon leaving, we ascended a street with the intriguing name “Tzukey HaYeshua” (Salvation Cliffs) and joined the Ein Karem Circular Trail. The standard white-green-white markings appear on the rocks, alongside an eye symbol, a nod to the village’s name. The walk left the built-up area and brought us into more open terrain, with ancient terraces and partially cultivated fields. Further along, the Israel National Trail joined us, a reminder of how this area is a link in a long route crossing the entire country.

Outside the “Swedish Village” we stopped at a viewpoint. From here, one can clearly see again the domes of the Russian Church, the Beit Zayit Reservoir which was nearly full to the point of opening the dam, the Church of the Visitation in the heart of the village, and also the new bridge of the Jerusalem Light Rail, a modern line crossing the mountainous landscape. The view is so magnificent that I photographed it twice: once normally and once with zoom to capture more details. It happens that there are exactly twice as much images in the panorama with zoom.

A Cyclamen Growing on the Rock

Several years prior, I photographed a very special image in Ein Karem, spanning 720 degrees. Yes, seven hundred and twenty degrees. 360 degrees adjacent to the Sisters of Zion Monastery, and an additional 360 degrees from the Visitation steps, with the panorama connecting in the valley below Hadassah Ein Kerem Hospital. Thus, in this extended panorama, one can see everything mentioned above…

Throughout the route, almond trees in full bloom accompanied us. The white and pink stood out especially against the gray sky and the dark green of the trees. Among the terraces, we also saw cyclamens, anemones, and other seasonal flowers. We walked extensively, and the physical challenge was moderate, a gentle walk with stops for explanation and observation. Close to Tu BiShvat, with blooming at its peak, this area is one of the most accessible and richest places for a short hike around Jerusalem, both in nature and architecture.